Albufeira - a great place to holiday!
Albufeira must be one of the most famous places in Portugal, never mind the Algarve... I'd never before stayed there, only visited to recline on a nearby beach, so it was with a hint of trepidation that I approached our September 2004 vacation. It turned out, I'm happy to report, to have been unnecessary worry. The town has received more than its fair share of bad press, due mainly to a misconception about 'tourism' and one tiny part of the town. In reality, there are two Albufeiras; the old town that served as a fishing port and the new areas that grew up around that original part. Of course, the money that tourism has brought has meant that Albufeira's importance has grown, and it's now the hub of a sizeable administrative area (although part of the greater district of Faro).
Like many places in the Algarve, it's lived through 'interesting times'. Long before the seismic events brought about by football (soccer) hooliganism during the recent Euro 2004 competition, Albufeira was suffering damage from real earthquakes (most recently in 1755, you'll be relieved to hear). But even before and after that, there were sieges and reconquests which left the town in ruins. In fact, I read recently that the upsurge of tourism over the last 30-40 years has been responsible for rescuing the place from virtual poverty. Of course, the tourism is the result of its abundance of great beaches, which as you'll learn, tends to endear a place to yours truly. Albufeira is pretty much in the centre of the Algarve coastline, yet the transfer by coach from Faro airport takes less than one hour, so you might not need to hire a car. This is a marathon page, so if you'd rather skip to a subject that appeals, just click any of the links below:
Albufeira NewsLatest item is the announcement that the official season in Albufeira will in future extend from 18 May to 20 October. That means the beaches will be guarded and security will remain in place, to offer a safer beach experience in this Algarve hot-spot. Of course, there is lots to enjoy even out of season, if you're not magnetically drawn to the beach. And of course you don't have to go in the water, in season or out. Sprawling under a parasol with your vacation reading does not require a lifeguard, does it? TransportAlbufeira has a really efficient Giro (circulatory) bus service, with three circuits covering the whole of the centre and the outskirts, and plenty of paragems (bus stops). You can just hop on and off wherever the fancy takes you... The three Giro 'lines' are:
Linha Vermilha A 3- Euro ticket (roughly £2.50 or $4.00) would get you unlimited travel on any of the Giro routes for a whole day. (And I believe you can travel even more cheaply if you buy a 7-day ticket.) Albufeira also offers a tourist road train, known as Turistrem. The route starts down near Fisherman's Beach in the Old Town, with stops at the Câmara Municipal, and 'The Strip'. Some of the route's roads are a bit bumpy and in poor repair, and the carriage's suspension is a bit unforgiving on a vacationing rear-end, but you can always take along a cushion, now I've warned you! And now, let's get down to what there is to enjoy in and around Albufeira. There's a great deal to tell, so I'll start with my own specialist field of interest... BeachesStarting from west and going eastward, and all within easy reach, you can choose from Praia de Baleerira (west of the new marina), the old town's two beaches, Praia do Peneco and Praia dos Pescadores (Fishermen's Beach), which I've also heard called Praia dos Barcos. Then there's Praia do Inatel, Praia dos Alamães, Praia das Areias de São João, Praia dos Aveiros and Praia da Oura. That lot span only 5 kilometres (a little over 3 miles)! And there are even more beaches that are easily accessible from Albufeira. A few miles to the west are Praia da Gale and Praia do São Rafael. While a short distance eastward, you can choose from Praia do Olhos de Agua and Praia da Falésia. Some of these beaches are among my current favourites. You can see the up-to-date listing on my Favourite Beaches page.
And then, of course, as with everywhere in Portugal, there are ... ChurchesAlbufeira has a good crop of them, in varying states of use and repair. Whether or not you're religious, they offer an insight into what makes the locals tick, I find. They have certainly poured a lot of time, effort and money into their places of worship over the ages. Igreja (Parish Church)
It contains a painting by local artist Samora Barros, (who was featured at the Municipal gallery during our stay). It forms a background for Albufeira's patron saint, Our Lady of the Conception. That's the Igreja's bell tower behind me (I was sitting facing the Sant'Ana church - they're that close!) SantAna ChurchAnother 18th century church, standing in the Largo Jacinto dAyet. Main objects of interest are the altar piece representing Our Lady of Pain and a wooden sculpture of the Crucifixion. The name is sometimes denoted as 'Santana', like that of the rock group. Misericórdia ChapelConverted from the remains of a Moorish mosque as the chapel for Albufeira's Governor, it is found in Rua Henrique Calado. It was partly rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake, using a Gothic style. S. Sebastião ChurchLocated in the Praça Miguel Bombarda, this was also built during the mid-18th century. Bits of it are - allegedly - a mix of Manueline and Baroque styles (which is lost on me, but looks interesting anyway). Inside are various wooden images of saints and a carved stone image allegedly from the former chapel of Nossa Senhora da Piedade. Nossa Senhora da Orada ChapelThe original chapel was 16th century, while this building was latter 18th century. The tombs outside include that of an Albufeira local, Francisco Correia dAtaide Cabrita, who fought as a commander in the civil war of 1833. Other Points of Interest:Archaeological MuseumThis is in the old town, and displays items salvaged from the ruins of past buildings. We even photographed some, before the desk lady (I don't think she was the curator) asked us to desist.
I don't know why they do that. It's not as though flash photography is going to harm crumbling bits of stonework, surely. (Some of you archaeological experts out there might care to drop me an e-mail if that's incorrect - I'm always happy to learn). The best way to visit it is to walk up the Rua da Bateria from the pedestrianised area, until you reach the corner with Rua Henrique Calado. You'll find the Museum in the small square there. And the bonus is, you'll have great sea views for much of your walk. SantAna DoorwayOne of the three castle doorways, it provided access to the original chapel of SantAna which was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake, to be replaced by the existing chapel. S. Vicente de AlbufeiraThe monument to this local friar stands in the Largo Jacinto dAyet. He undertook a mission to convert the Japanese to Christianity, was imprisoned and tortured, but refused to recant his faith and so was burned at the stake in 1632. The Bell TowerConstructed on top of the parish church in 1869, this tower has a 28-metre high stairway leading up to 8 bells (so don't be up there when they ring them!) Former Town HallJust off the main square, Largo Eng. Duarte Pacheco, this was damaged by the 1755 earthquake and a subsequent fire. Over the main doorway is the family coat of arms of a Governor of Albufeira Castle. CastleThere's not much left of it, what with the earthquakes and sieges it's undergone, but you can get an idea of what it must have been like to live in a fortified area under constant threat of attack or invasion. This was the last Moorish stronghold to fall during the reconquest of Portugal, and was only taken when Faro (the other major centre of resistance) fell, and Albufeira's situation became untenable. What's left of the fortifications can be seen at Rua Joaquim Pedro Samora, where this tower guarded the north gateway.  The Clock TowerVisible from just about anywhere that your view isn't blocked by an apartment building, the clock tower is a one-off. In a country where unusual skylines are the norm, this is in a class of its own, easily mistaken for the top of some strange church. I believe that it is regarded as Alufeira's symbol and is illuminated during the town's many festivals. The ArsenalAssumed to be 16th century, this compartment was exposed by cliff erosion. It can be viewed from the wall of the Rua da Bateria. Arch of the Travessa da Igreja VelhaAn impressive bit of Arab architecture with an open drain that runs down the middle of the street. The church for which it's named disappeared during the 1755 earthquake. Art GalleryLocated right next to the Câmara Municipal, the gallery is not large, but holds regular exhibitions. When we visited, there was a display of paintings by local artist Samora Barros and a man with the wonderful surname of Sousa é Motta. Nev was unimpressed with Senhor Barros, but thought that Sousa é Motta's portraits in oils were top-notch. Entertainment
They're big on free live entertainment in Albufeira, especially in the Old Town Square, known as Largo Eng. Duarte Pacheco. It's been extensively refurbished since the picture above was taken during our 2004 Albufeira vacation. Free entertainment includes sideshows such as the 'statue' artistes who hold poses for long periods, only breaking off to 'give a twirl' to those who put money into their offerings hat. You're also likely to encounter puppet show to music, a South American pipe band, and a mime artist or two. We always enjoy observing the portrait artists, most of them pretty talented, who will do group or individual portraits on the spot. They work in difficult conditions, since friends and family of the sitter always get restless and try to disturb proceedings, which doesn't do much for the artist's concentration. Albufeira landmarksThe StripThis is something we were told we would love or hate. Actually, we did neither. It is a north-to-south road just up from Praia da Oura, and it is lined with tourist-trap bars and shops. Most have some form of music blaring forth, which makes for a bit of a cacophony. And many of the shops are selling the same sort of things, but I know nothing about commercial practice, so maybe that makes sense. One thing that puzzles me is the number of 'Irish bars'. Albufeira didn't seem to have that many Irish residents (or Irish tourists, come to that). If you don't like the local brews and fancy a Guinness, Boddingtons and Murphy's beers and the occasional chap singing 'Oirish' laments, with big-screen TVs showing English Premiership or International football matches, then you know where to look! If The Strip doesn't sound like your thing, just avoid it; there's lots more to see and do in Albufeira. Perhaps it was my 'vacation mode' but I find there's a definite buzz about it, and most of the people you'll see are enjoying themselves well enough. Also, it contains many shops and businesses that hand out free maps of the town, which are extremely handy (and more informative than anything we gleaned at the Old Town's tourist information office).
One of my favourite landmarks is the 'cursed by the Almighty' bench above Fisherman's beach (see the Albufeira vacation page for my 2004 pic). It's been renovated and whitewashed, and the new graffiti on the wall/backrest aren't half as intriguing - but it still offers a fabulous view and some welcome cool breezes. Finding your way around if you're driving... The 4 RoundaboutsThese are all on the Avenida dos Descobrimentos, From west to east, they feature: dolphins, watches (pictured here), worms and a 'globe' fountain. I soon learned that if I got to the dolphins, I was approaching or leaving the Albufeira Marina. When I could see the watches, I wasn't far from the Câmara Municipal (Town Hall). At the worms, I was nearing The Strip, and the globe fountain meant I was near the bullring (perish the thought). All in all, an easy way to remember how to get around, while you're still learning.
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It's probably been around since pre-historic times, but the Romans knew it as Baltum, and the Moors renamed it Al Buhera (which apparently means sea-castle).
In the Rua da Igreja Nova, this 18th century building replaced the Igreja destroyed during the 1755 earthquake that devastated much of Albufeira.
the main east-west road that bisects greater Albufeira, and each features some-thing large and eye-catching. Some might think they are less than breathtaking in their beauty, but when you're driving around town for the first time, they make it hard to get lost!
Marina
If
it's a free dinner on the complex, don't worry,
just enjoy the night out. Small recompense for
subjecting yourself to a few hours of unsubtle sales
pressure!
