Algarve Blog

This Algarve blog is intended to keep you in touch with the latest in Algarve affairs. Now that I'm living here, I'm trying to keep you updated with what's going on in the Algarve and around those wonderful beaches.

So, here's my regular take on occurrences in what used to be my favourite vacation spot... but is now my favourite place to live.

Faro on two wheels

The annual bikers' meet in Faro took place for the 27th year in a row, ending last Sunday. Rumoured to be the largest event of its kind in Europe, it seems to grow year by year, and this year saw almost 24,000 people at the site near Faro Airport. Numbers would have been further swelled by day visitors to the Vale das Almas site.

Good-humoured as usual, the event repeated last year's achievement of 'zero deaths' on the roads. Local businesses are keen that the event continues, although a shadow has been cast on its future by the possibility that some of the land used for the meet may soon be sold.

The president of the Moto Clube de Faro, José Amaro, is reportedly upbeat about the matter, however, and is confident that an arrangement will be reached in good time.

Let's hope so, as Faro does benefit from the colour and excitement of the meet. On the final day, Sunday, there's a procession of thousands of the bikes, taking their farewell of Faro, and hordes of spectators turn out to watch them, some arriving in early morning to claim a prime viewing point.

Don't forget to visit Faro next year, if you're in Algarve during late July, and see all the colourful fun for yourself.

Tuesday 29 July 2008

One to watch out for...

... is the return next year of the Nights of the Enchanted Moorish Maiden (see 'Moroccan Roll' further down the page) at Cacela Velha.

This year's four-day event was colourful and great fun, with lots of people looking nicely relaxed. A chilled beer was only one Euro per bottle (which pleased Nev) and we liked the spectacle so much that we went back for a second look.

Admittedly there was an ulterior motive, as Nev had seen a Djembe drum that he wanted, but we hadn't been able to scrape together enough cash to buy it on our first visit! (You should be aware that tiny Cacela Velha boasts neither an ATM machine nor a bank!)

The only downside, we agreed, was the way the camels that were giving short rides to excited children were tethered together rather closely, nose to tail, and didn't seem to be having fun. We did spot their rest area, though and even saw them taking a break lying down and trying to ignore all the rubbernecking visitors who were gawking at them.

All told, though, if you're in Algarve next July, you should look for the dates of the Cacela Velha Moorish Nights event (it's under the Vila Real S. Antonio municipality) and go along to join in the fun.

(And yes, Nev did get his drum, after a good haggle with the vendor - by me -  so he left happy).

Sunday 27 July 2008

Moroccan Roll

Over the next few days (in fact, from 24th to 27th inclusive) the picturesque hamlet of Cacela Velha will be hosting a reprise of its Moroccan Fair. 

Entitled "Nights of the Enchanted Moroccan Maiden" (or Noites da Moura Encantada) it will fill the village's streets during the afternoons and evenings with a reminder of Algarve's Moorish past.

We'll definitely be heading there at least once during the fair, so I'll post any particularly interesting (to me, anyway) photos in a later blog.

Since Nev's taken up Djembe drumming recently, he may even be able to acquire his own drum at the fair's market, instead of borrowing one... Then again, I think Djembe's more West African that Moroccan, so I may be wide of the mark there.

All will be revealed, so watch this space!

Wednesday 23 July 2008

Albufeira Blues?

I was in Albufeira for the first time in a whle earlier this week... and I'm still trying to sort out my impressions of what the authorities are doing there.

Since I first stayed there in 2004, a lot has happened, and I'm worried that they're straining the last bits of historical character out of the town. For instance, I didn't see a single fishing boat (or owner of same) at Fisherman's Beach!

Instead, there's been more development of the esplanade in that area, including a two-section escalator where the stone steps used to lead up to the cliff-top road. To top it all, its sides are in shiny, reflective stainless metal. (I would imagine you could fry eggs on your handbag if you approach within a metre on a sunny day).

On the plus side, many of the narrow streets in the Old Town are now pedestrian-only. This is a welcome move, since the pavement walkways (where present) were often only a few centimetres wide and finished in polished calcada stones, cunningly inclined to help you slide in front of approaching traffic!

On the minus side, they've painted over the grafitti-ed bench on the cliff-top road that used to boast 'Albufeira is cursed by Almighty God'. New grafitti has appeared, but of a much less apocalyptic (and therefore less interesting) nature. 

The whole stretch of clifftop road at Fisherman's Beach has been pedestrianised, so the Giro bus services must also have been re-routed. 

Monday 21 July 2008

All the nice girls love a sailor...

Or so the saying goes. I'm betting that the crews of the luxury cruise liners that can now berth in the freshly dredged harbour at Portimao are hoping it's true!

While on the subject of naval matters, I was amused to read recently that various of the former colonies and dependencies of Portugal are asking for handouts (that's 'aid' in the politically-correct parlance) to augment their naval capabilities.

Mozambique, for instance, has a coastal patrol force that numbers only a few vessels. But, that doesn't prevent the man at the top from rejoicing in the title of Admiral. Call me cynical, but I can't help feeling some of that money would be contributing to the Admiral's pension fund. And why should the citizens of Portugal, who earn some of the lowest wages in the EU, foot the bill for that?

Come to that, I'm finding it hard to imagine which naval power would want to attack the coastline of Mozambique. And, even if there were such an entity, would the newly-augmented Mozambican naval forces, probably numbering four boats rather than three, be in any better shape to repel these marauders?

One can't help but think that Portugal's money would be better spent on Portuguese citizens, or at least in encouraging more Algarve tourism to boost the economy. 

Saturday 19 July 2008

Pests Watch Out!

Here's a tip that was sent in by Algarve Beach Life reader Sharon Jenkins from Northants, UK.

It's all about the dreaded mosquitoes that can turn the best months of the summer into a nightmare.

"Don't know whether this is of any use to your subscribers but it does work.

Mosquitoes have a feast on me all during the summer months. Try spraying the lawn and decking with Listerine (mouth rinse) and the little demons will disappear. 

Fill a spray bottle and use it around your seat whenever you see mosquitoes, or near a picnic area, spray around the food table, or nearby standing water.  It will last a couple of days. Don't spray directly on a wood door (like your front door), but spray around the frame. Spray around the window frames. 

Try it and see."

Thanks for that, Sharon. I'll try it with our local brand of mouthwash first (as Listerine isn't that widely available in Algarve, I believe).

Anyone else had any success with this approach? Let me know via the Algarve Best form, and I'll add the tip to the Algarve Tourism page, so everyone can benefit (including Listerine shareholders, I'd guess).

 Thursday 17 July 2008

Rules of the Road

According to recent news items, it's all change on the roads in Portugal and the Algarve. There's going to be a crackdown on violations and infractions, apparently.

If you've done any driving in Portugal or the Algarve recently, you'll know that's a lot of violations and infractions under discussion! Parking on pedestrian crossings is virtually mandatory (at least, I rarely see a crossing without a vehicle parked on it, hazard lights blinking in the sun, as if somehow that excused it).

It will be something of a cultural shift, if they manage it, but the government intends to punish such everyday occurrences as speeding, drink driving, using a cellphone while driving... All of which are rather commonplace, I'm sorry to report.

Punishments might include loss of driving licence for up to two years, and an enforced re-sitting of the driving test before re-instatement.

I can't help remembering when they cracked the whip about these things in the UK. Nothing happened to change behaviour. Drivers with cellphones clamped to their heads numbered about one car in three. Many drivers who are stopped for such infractions turn out not to be qualified / insured / in possession of a valid licence anyway.

If you're caught driving without a licence, receiving a driving ban seems not to address the problem, somehow...

The aims, as ever, may be laudable, but 'the proof will be in the pudding'. We'll see what effect the new draconian measures have. Here's hoping!

 Tuesday 15 July 2008

Algarve Communications

Now that the season is underway for Algarve tourism, you will see the usual crop of Internet and telephone kiosks springing up along the tourist thoroughfares.

Unlike much of the over-priced rubbish that is aimed at the tourist market, these facilities generally represent fair value for money, I find. At one stage, when we stayed in Portimao in 2005, Nev and I made frequent use of the Internet kiosks along the beach road in Praia da Rocha to stay in touch with friends and even to keep Algarve Beach Life updated!

While the telephone services are not rock-bottom cheap, I found them handy enough to compensate for that. Why? Because they remove the stress of buying (or haggling about) a pre-paid phone card to use on the public network. Even having negotiated the tricky part in obtaining a card suitable for your needs, it is possible to find phones that 'eat' the card, won't accept it for use, or gobble up the credit faster than they should.

What about coin phones? Try to find one that hasn't been vandalised, or is private enough (or quiet enough) to allow that important call.

No, give me the purpose-built booths anytime. You enter the facility, take your ticket, wait your turn if necessary, use the facilities and pay when you've finished. There's usually someone who can communicate in your own language if you encounter any problems. And, the clincher is that they stay open to suit the hours kept by tourists.

They're commercial enterprises and they're there to make money of course, but they fill a need and generally don't take customers for a ride. Good on them, I say!

 Sunday 13 July 2008

CP-OK

I took a train journey last weekend. Travelled up to Sintra to visit my sister and her family, who were there to attend a wedding.

Everything went well. Yes, there's the 'will-it, won't it' aspect of Portugal, which meant that I turned up at the railway station on the Sunday morning, ticket in hand, to discover whether the train to Faro was running. Yes, it was, and it arrived on time, so I was able to make my connecting train without mishap or stress.

Quite why the station personnel didn't know the Faro train would run when I asked the previous day was never established. No matter, things went as they should thereafter.

The journey was long and eventful, but mainly scenic. My allotted seat was between two windows(!) and so offered no outside view. I moved to an empty window seat, only to need to vacate it at the next stop, because the allocated ticket holder joined the train. This happened about five times, before I found an unallocated seat with a view!

We arrived in Lisbon on time, and I made my Sintra connection with ease.

The return journey was just as reliable, and I arrived back at my station of origin within two minutes of scheduled time (twenty five to midnight) to find Nev waiting for me. Eat your hearts out, British railway companies. The main train north was air-conditioned and comfortable. It wasn't crowded, and there was no passenger litter left lying around.

As I mentioned in a blog last month, prices have just gone up on CP (that's Comboios Portugal, or Portugal Trains). But, they're still reasonable compared to what I'm used to in the UK.

A single fare from Lagos to Vila Real do S. António, virtually the entire width of the Algarve, is still only 8.5 euros.

Let's hear it for CP - and I'm looking forward to my next railway adventure.

 Friday 11 July 2008

Algarve Fires

Oh dear... After quite some time without serious mishap, there has been a crop of fires in Algarve recently. This time, it was the area between Olhão and Tavira.

So, was it careless campers, arsonists or... No to all of those, apparently. The theory is that the conflagrations were caused by testing procedures on a railway train, since the separate fires occurred along the railway line!

The tests must have been causing lots of sparks, since the blazes were extinguished 65 bombeiros, 23 emergency vehicles and two fire-fighting helicopters. 

On the following day, it was Lagoa's turn with three brush fires, and another near Silves. This lot took the attention of 52 bombeiros, 15 fire engines and a single helicopter.

Since the dry weather is forecast to continue for a while, the prognosis is for more blazes, so take care on your Algarve vacation!

 Wednesday 9 July 2008

Water Awareness

The recent news that two toddlers had drowned in Algarve pools (in separate incidents) reminded me of the need for constant vigilance where youngsters and water are mixed.

And, since many of the Algarve activities that I list seem to involve water or watersports, it's perhaps timely to mention that if you're headed for the region with children in tow, then checking on the availability of other forms of supervision, such as carers or lifeguards, should be the order of the day before you consider letting your offspring out of your sight.

A little planning a forethought might prevent your vacation from becoming a nightmare.

Considering that the evolutionists tell us that we came from the ocean, we seem to be particularly at danger from even small volumes of water. Even strong swimmers succumb to treacherous currents and undertows and having a 'spotter' to look out for you when you're in the ocean is no bad thing.

Enjoy the Algarve, of course, but make sure you return home without any watery mishaps! 

 Monday 7 July 2008

Taking a Toll

I blogged previously that I thought they'd be crazy to institute tolls on the A22 motorway that bisects the Algarve region from east to west.

Not that politicians don't do crazy things from time to time (Iraq war, abolition of 10p tax band for Britain's poorest, telling fibs about the final cost of the London Olympics...)

So, I wasn't entirely surprised to see the Portugal motorway toll thing rear its head again in the recent newspaper editions. What did surprise me is that they're thinking about it close to the next general election, rather than after the last one.

Except that, the current prime minister promised that, if elected, he wouldn't exact tolls on roads that were free at the time.

As to the Algarve's A22 motorway, the Transport Minister was quoted as stating that it would remain toll-free 'at least until the next general elections'.

So we know what's likely to happen after that if his lot wins!

The motorways may end up emptier than the one shown here! >>>

We'll see if they go ahead. What with the price of fuel here, I'm thinking of opening a bicycle shop! I could soon be rich...

 Saturday 5 July 2008

A Brick Too Far

It's a mixed-up world, and no mistake. Spain is now paying the price for its unchecked sprouting of brick and concrete over the majority of its costas - and Algarve is trying (in its inimitably quirky fashion) to learn its neighbour's lesson.

But it's tricky. On the one hand, you need new things to attract tourists. On the other, you don't want to do anything that will substantially alter the appeal of your region - like over-builiding...

So, it was with interest that I read this week about plans for a major development in Vilamoura (which, along with Quarteira, is hardly under-developed at present).

There are plans for a Cidade Lacustre (which looks unfortunately like 'lacklustre') adjacent to the existing marina facilities. It will be a water-based concept, with buildings alongside lakes and streams. And there'll be an emphasis on getting around on foot (bridges) and by boat (water taxis and small boats).

All of which sounds fine, until you realise that it will take two years to put in the infrastructure, before any buildings can go up. So around three or four years of dirt, noise and disruption for the neighbouring marina, which is not a cheap place to vacation!

And, I then read another piece about the European Commission having formally notified Portugal about deficiencies in planning authorisations for two tourist complexes (Grandola and Alcacer do Sal). 

Neither of the projects carried out a credible environmental impact study, it is claimed, and fast-tracked authorisations were given, which has led to deep suspicions of naughtiness or incompetence, neither of which is reassuring if you love Portugal and the Algarve region.

It would be a tragedy if the Portuguese followed the Spanish down the over-development route. Maybe they won't, but only time will tell, and inadequate authorisation procedures hardly bode well.

 Thursday 3 July 2008

Fiesa 2008

I know, I know! - I was tardy this year, but it's just how things panned out. Anyway, we did make it to Pera to see the sand sculpture extravaganza and you can read all about it (and how to get a discount on your ticket) at my new page, Fiesa 2008.

Did I think it was as good as other years? Was it worth the travelling and the entrance fee? Would I go back? Do I recommend it to you?

All will be revealed, and you can make up your own mind when you see the pics I've included.

 Tuesday 1 July 2008

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