Algarve CultureIt's something that you don't often find on a sunny beach, Algarve culture, which is why it was a while before I discovered anything about it!
I look back with perhaps a tinge of regret, since the cultural part of an Algarve holiday can add so much to your enjoyment of this wonderful area. Of course, Algarve is famed for its fantastic beaches, and no-one would deny that they are the main draw for tourists. But Algarve culture is just as much a part of what you're visiting, and you don't have to look hard to find it... The only drawback, I used to think, is that you do need to leave the beaches behind for just a while - but they're still there, waiting for you, when you've satisfied your appetite for discovering a little more about this fantastic region. Of course, Algarve culture springs from the history of this southern-most part of Portugal, so if you'd like to put things in their proper context, then you can check out what happened in the past on my Algarve History page. Otherwise, we'll make a start with what happens throughout the year... The Cultural CalendarAs in most devout (by Western standards) countries, Portugal's year is punctuated by colourful religious festivals. Check out the list below to see whether you can fit any experiences of Algarve culture into your vacation schedule:
January - early New Year singing and processions February - carnival time March - Easter processions April - Holy Week sees lots of large processions and the celebration of the bloodless 'Carnation' Revolution of 1974 May Day - folk festivals - often events with a local flavour and redolent of genuine Algarve culture
June, July - more secular celebrations such as music, art and drink festivals. August - agricultural and seafood shows, more music and the (reluctant) celebration of the upcoming end of the tourist season. September sees celebrations of Portuguese folk customs and thanksgiving for the wine harvest (I'll drink to that!). October has an international car rally, a festival in Faro (and even a republican celebration of the overthrow of the monarchy!) November brings All Souls' Day, a sombre time with black clothing much in evidence December - Christmas Day is much more religious in Portugal, and the commercial side of Santa season has only recently begun to make inroads.
... So, you can see that it's not difficult to sample some authentic Algarve culture, whatever time of the year you might visit the region. While, on a less formal and calendar-driven note, there's an awful lot to do and see when you start to delve into Algarve culture and history. MarketsAlmost any town near where you're staying in Algarve will have a 'market day'. This is where your nearest Tourist Information office gets the chance to earn its living. Check out what's on and where, then plan to take in one or two of the local markets during your stay.
Touradas, alas...Of course, nothing's perfect in this world, and there are some parts of Algarve culture that even an unbridled enthusiast such as me can find perplexing... One such would have to be bullfights. Maybe it's because I'm from a gloomier, less volatile culture way up to the North, but I have never understood the Latin thing about killing animals for sport. I can't say that I find it to be macho... just sad. And even though they don't kill the bull in Portuguese touradas (so I'm assured, since I've never been to see for myself) the animal is nevertheless finished off afterward, since it has been so damaged and weakened by what has been inflicted upon it in the ring. I guess the fights are still popular enough to make them commercially viable. If that's part of what you want to do with your holiday, then you shouldn't need to look far to find an event, but I haven't researched any venues, and neither do I intend to, so you're on your own in that regard. While, on a lighter note, I'm happy to report that there's yet more Algarve culture to enjoy if you ignore the sand and gore... Art and ExhibitionsThe Portuguese pride themselves on being a fairly cultured nation, and I can only say that I agree. Just about wherever I have travelled within Algarve, there's been somewhere easily accessible where I could enjoy some art. Even during our last week's holiday there, in April 2004 (when we were driving about all over the place checking out properties) we managed to fit in two most enjoyable visits to see some Algarve culture in the guise of artwork. And my first example was sheer serendipity... A Bit of Quarteira CultureWe stopped off there for a rest, en route to yet more property-hunting. Just off the seafront we found an unoccupied, shady bench in a square that had a sizeable fountain and waterworks feature. To our amusement, along came a local mutt, who checked out that no-one (he thought) was watching then dived in for a good plodge through the cooling water. Having climbed out on the other side and had a good shake, he headed back home, steaming gently in the hot midday sun... We thought we'd look for the public conveniences before we set off again on our travels and - bingo! We stumbled upon an exhibition of modern art in the local public hall. Only one artist was exhibiting, a Portuguese called Martins. The hall had about 40 or 50 canvases all hung at a nice viewing height. They were tremendously colourful abstracts, some of which reminded me of Jackson Pollock's work (not that I'd say they were derivative; more evocative, perhaps). Entry was free, and we lingered a good hour, discussing which pictures we liked and why. We were never going to buy any of them, even in limited edition print format, (well, we are trying to afford an Algarve property, so that's our financial priority), but it was most enjoyable and an unexpected bonus from our Quarteira stopover. São Lourenço
We spent a couple of happy hours there, and would have stayed longer if we'd had less to get through during our week. But it's definitely down on my list of places to revisit when we're next in Algarve. It's a small, self-effacing sort of place, with a few staff who are happy to answer questions, but equally pleased if you just want to nose around and see what's on display. There are prints for sale, and the artwork includes pictures hung inside the building while craftwork and sculptures are dotted throughout its rather beautiful gardens. I was particularly struck by some of the sculptures of animals, and noted down the artists' names. (Unfortunately, I lost the notebook on my journey home, which is another story, but I'll ask after the artists when we visit the Centre again).
Perhaps my favourite piece was a sculpture (pictured above) in the garden that reminded me somehow of Mervyn Peake's 'Gormenghast' trilogy. Probably that was not what was in the artist's mind, but then, who cares, so long as it's enjoyed on some level. I also liked the various cows that were dotted about the place, some of them almost life-size! But one of the most impressive pieces was a large sculpture of Samson destroying the Philistine temple in Gaza. We turned a corner in the garden and there it was... Quite breathtaking in both theme and scale. And rather more engaging than the crusty old Biblical subjects that I used to hate whenever I was dragged around a London art gallery or museum.
The Centre also hosts fairly regular small-scale musical concerts, so a phone call will get you the details if you're interested. They seem to be mainly classical and jazz, but of course, the more mainstream popular music is more than catered for in any of the major tourist areas that boast clubs. Yes indeed, there's much to enjoy (even if it's raining) when you start to look for examples of Algarve culture. So... ...that's a brief introduction exemplified by some things that I've enjoyed recently. It's true to say, though, that I seem to discover more each time I dip my toe into the waters of Algarve culture, so I'll be updating this page accordingly. If you have any stories (and photographs) of about your own experiences of Algarve culture, why not share them with others? Just use the simple form provided on the 'Your Algarve Best' page. And you can always subscribe to my free monthly newsletter, Algarve Beach Life News, by clicking on the link below ("For Lovers of Algarve Beach Life") or on the button at top left ("Subscribe to ABLN") --
I'll keep you updated, every month, about the new information I have added about this wonderful region. For Lovers of Algarve Beach Life Return from Algarve Culture to Algarve Beach Life home Back to top
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Magnificent metal bull, Sao Lourenco Cultural Centre
Odd effigies in Estói, May 1st, 2004
The great thing about the Algarve, to my mind, is that it is a 'real' place unlike many purpose-built tourist magnets (sorry Disneyworld). Some of the local markets are particularly unspoiled in this regard. They're proper markets, for local people, and have lots of authentic 'feel' and atmosphere, which I suppose is one definition of 'Algarve culture'. Even when I don't want to buy anything, it's fun just to drink in the ambience and enjoy the locals being themselves.
The other example of Algarve culture that we enjoyed during our April visit was in the São Lourenço Cultural Centre, a short drive from our apartment in Almancil. The centre is just down the hill from the São Lourenço church, which is a big draw for tourists due to its famously ornate interior. Strangely, not many people seemed to notice the Cultural Centre, perhaps because of its rather unambitious advertising, which seems to consist of a small framed sign detailing its opening hours.
