Caldas de Monchique

Around 20 kilometres out of Portimão and heading northward lies Caldas de Monchique. This small but picturesque village is well signposted, but the roads nearby are winding and need a driver's full attention, so you could be forgiven for missing it.

But it would be a shame, since the spa village is just as interesting to visit than its big sister, Monchique.

Caldas de Monchique has been visited for its curative spa waters since, according to records, early Roman times, and is now enjoying something of a return to favour.

When you turn off the main road, the detour takes you down a slight incline into the square. It's possible to park on the approach road, but I've never found it difficult to park further on into the main area, even in high season.

Caldas de Monchique is situated in a ravine, with some spectacular rock outcrops to capture the eye. It's a pretty place, in the best sense of the word; a testament to the commercial enterprise, (Termas de Monchique) which owns most of it and has 'done it up' so sympathetically.

Some might argue that there's not much to see, but I think quality, not quantity, is what counts here.

Around the main square that precedes the hotel and baths (it's a one-way system) are an inn, a bar, a post office and shop. The inn boasts an open-air oven, where you can watch some very efficient ladies clean, prepare and fire the thing prior to baking local delicacies and bread rolls. (For some strange reason, I find it most relaxing to watch others at work, especially while I'm on vacation!)

Caldas de Monchique evolved around four spring sources that have existed for millennia. Nowadays, three are piped directly to the bottling plant (so you can guess that there's a market for the stuff)! The fourth spring feeds the spa/hotel where 46 bedrooms are available to those who wish to 'take the waters' during a curative stay.

The famous waters, it is claimed, issue forth at a constant 32°C, and smell sulphurous (i.e. not nice)!  They are bicarbonated, and contain sodium and fluorine, and can allegedly cure rheumatism and various respiratory problems..

My favourite bits to visit in Caldas de Monchique are the shallow cascades up the hill from the hotel (see pic at top of page), and the adjacent church, both of which add to calm, restorative nature of the place.

The Bouvet, which is situated between the square and the new pool is a strange cylindrical building where you can drink the waters as they issue from the ground (untouched by human hand)! Nev settled for posing next to it and contented himself with a swig of our (pre-boiled) bottled water, later, with his sandwich...

If that doesn't tickle your fancy, you can while away an hour or two in the crafts shop, where those thoughtful vacation presents can be selected. Just make sure they're small enough to fit into that travel luggage you're toting around!

Caldas de Monchique Restaurants

The 1692 Restaurant (named after the year they first let the public enjoy the spa's benefits) offers indoor or outdoor dining. The latter can be enjoyed during most of the year, and there are some beautiful elm trees that offer shade in the sunnier months. Choose from local sausage, Italian cuisine or typical Algarvean fish dishes.

O Terraço restaurant enjoyed a recent overhaul and offers views of the hills while you dine. Duck with port wine and pineapple is supposed to be its signature dish. It welcomes both guests and visitors between 1200 and 1430 and for dinner, between 1900 and 2300.

There's also a wine bar, O Tasco, right in the village centre near the apartments. Snacks can be had with your drinks and there's often a little soft Fado music to set the mood.

Caldas de Monchique Accommodation

Dom Carlos
This is the latest hotel in the village to have undergone a facelift. Its spectacular position on the hillside affords wonderful views and also guarantees plenty of warmth from the sun. 

It boasts 18 rooms and 4 luxury suites, offering both authentic and modern decor, and even has a 'pub'. It's open only to guests and visitors to the Spa, and you can enjoy snooker, chess, various boardgames and some calming background music.

Central Hotel
In a restored building in the middle of the village (surprise!) the hotel has an air of yesteryear about it. With 13 rooms face the hills over Monchique, a Drawing Room, a terrace and some games rooms.

It houses the main reception area for the Spa Resort, with plenty of leaflets available to inform you about your surroundings. There are even bicycles to rent, though it should be pointed out that, in such a hilly area, you'd need to be moderately fit to consider these.

Hotel Termal
Situated down in the valley below the other facilities, it has 46 rooms and shares the building with the Spa resort facilities including the outdoor spa water pool (pictured right). O Terraço restaurant is on the top floor (which makes sense, as it gives some great views).

Note that rooms in this hotel are not expected to be available until May 2009.

Dom Lourenco Inn
With 12 rooms, this accommodation is located in the centre of the village. There is a convenience story nearby. The building houses the 1692 Restaurant.

Dom Francisco Apartments 
Situated close to the D. Lourenco Inn, these are part of the complex of buildings that have been refurbished back to their impressive best. There are 10 apartments, each offering a twin bedroom, a living room with sofa bed and a small kitchen. 

Caldas de Monchique Prices

(All prices are per night, including Portuguese taxes  and are current at 2009)

Luxury doesn't come cheap, and Caldas de Monchique is not the exception to that rule. A suite will cost, depending on season, between 220-230 euros.  A double room would cost between 90 and 140 euros. A single room is between 70 and 105 euros.

Apartments cost between 130 and 170 euros.

Supplements are added as follows: half board 20 euros, full board 38 euros; extra bed 25 euros.

Activities

Due to the surrounding countryside and its sheer beauty, the Caldas de Monchique area is popular with hikers. 
Those who prefer more extreme exercise opt for all-terrain biking. 
The closest golf complex to the resort is that at Morgado do Reguengo. 
If you enjoy sailing, it's only a 25-minute drive to all the facilities on offer at Portimao.

It's not difficult to while away a few hours at Caldas de Monchique, especially if you take a meal while you're there. I find it just the sort of place to recharge my batteries prior to more of the frenetic stuff that vacations entail. Try it yourself sometime, and see if you don't agree.

And if you take the 'cure', either in drinkable or spa-treatment form, do let everyone know the outcome by sharing your experience. Just visit the Your Algarve Best page and 'spill the beans'.

In the meantime, subscribe to my monthly newsletter, Algarve Beach Life News, by using the form below and I'll keep you updated, every month, about what's new on the site, as it's added.

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