Dip your toe into the water (so to speak) with the short and sweet...
This takes in a few sites (and sights) of interest in and around the centre of the Algarve. The full tour would fill a day if you wished, or just visit Faro, Estói and
Almancil if you have only a half-day to spare.
Faro
Although, when seen from your arriving aeroplane, it looks not much more than a desiccated, industrialised town, Faro is nevertheless the essential hub of the Algarve. I love to traipse around the
old, walled city, with its charming outdoor cafés in traffic-free streets (always a big plus with me!). Start off to explore the Algarve with a strong cup of coffee in easy-on-the-eye
surroundings.
Sights to enjoy include the Castle, with its Roman-era city walls. There are also interesting churches and museums if you're curious about the area.
(If, while you explore the Algarve you would like to satisfy a taste for the ghoulish, visit Faro's Chapel of the Bones. This curious place, lined by Carmelites with the remnants of
pre-deceased brethren, was intended to make observers consider their own mortality, judging from the inscription above the entrance. I translated it (loosely) as meaning 'Our bones await
yours').
Faro cathedral's huge door.
While I'm not the most devout person you'll ever meet, I'm always humbled and awed by the sheer scale and workmanship in buildings such as cathedrals. During your outings as you explore the Algarve, you'll see many. But Faro's impressive example stands on a
site that has seen many changes over the years and has supported in turn:
a Roman basilica, a Visigoth church, a Moorish mosque -
- and now the Roman Catholic cathedral.
Estói
Only about 10 km (6-and-a-bit miles) from Faro, Estói has numerous examples of Algarvean country architecture.
When I first began to explore the Algarve, I found that the historical
sites always fascinated me. Estói does not disappoint in that regard.
My favourites there are the old palace, with its amazing facade and the surrounding picturesque old-style gardens (almost as overgrown and unkempt as my own).
Nearby, you can visit Milreu's 1st Century Roman
ruins. Even the roadside sign (picture right) was a bit the worse for
wear (but now they've replaced it with one of those ghastly
'tourist' signs in mud brown). It's an interesting venue, but make sure you don't drive there on a public holiday, like we did last time! (It was
closed).
The ruins were, depending on which authority you believe, either a private villa or public baths.
(That's what I love about historians; they disagree about absolutely everything).
São Brás de Alportel
This well-to-do market town, about 10 km from Estói, is set in an almond growing area. (Visit any time from December to early March to enjoy the blossom). Eat at the hill-top
pousada (one of my favourite spots and a great place to start any day out to explore the Algarve). Enjoy the great views from its terrace. Breakfasts are especially good value, if you're hungry (and you're there in time). There's a well-kept outdoor pool, if you're really hot.
Down in the town, the 15th Century parish church, or Igreja, has a wonderful classic frontage and bell tower (take your camera) and some impressive carving inside. The panoramic view
from the tombstone-flagged terrace is stunning.
But, with all that cloud, it was a bit chilly for a skirt!
Also, don't miss the nearby building that used to be a bishops' palace, with its domed pavilion and elaborate fountain.
And you might like to check out the museum (Museu) which
houses a collection of Algarve clothing throughout history
and also an interesting exhibition about how cork used to be
produced. (And the building itself is rather easy on
the eye).
Loulé
This is another market town (you'll come across many as you explore the Algarve!). The best time to visit to see things in full bustle-mode is mid-Saturday morning.
The outskirts of the town are unmistakably modern, so unless you're a fan of latter-day urban sprawl, you'll head for the centre of the old town.
The central market area has interestingly (but unfortunately mock) Moorish architecture. If you're not an authority, the pinkish domes are nevertheless impressive and worth a look (this is
Europe, after all!). Update: In
early 2007, they unveiled the new, overhauled and
refurbished market building - and it's a horror! Any
hint of authenticity has disappeared and it now looks like
something designed by the firm that does the decor for
McDonald's burger bars! Worth a look, even if only to
see how 'improvements' can go badly wrong. Meanwhile, in
the areas where the authorities haven't yet ruined things...
... The picturesque cobbled street called Rua 9 de Abril houses craft workshops, where authentic (not 'Hollywood') artisans turn out useful items like pots and pans.
Some great photo opportunities can be had in the lovely cobbled Rua Garcia de Horta, with its charming houses.
On a boiling hot day, we found welcome shade under the fronded palms in the Jardim dos Amuados ("Garden of the Sulkers", as best I could translate it).
If you're in the mood, Loulé even offers a museum of modern art and, staying with the contemporary, just to the west of the town, jutting out of a hill top, is the futuristic church
of Nossa Senhora da Piedade. While I tend to prefer traditional architecture, there's no denying that this building has plenty of wow! factor.
Almancil
Some 12 km (7 miles) to the west of Estói [or 7 km (4 miles) south of Loulé], this place is renowned (it proudly claims) for its painted ceramics.
Although it's hardly a traditional
Portuguese village any longer, it does have the charming church of São Lourenço dos Matos.
And just down the cobbled hill from there is an informative cultural centre which, by way of contrast, holds musical concerts and displays modern art!
Also, depending on the time of day, the Almancil area does offer a lot of choice if you're looking for a restaurant...
Finally, from Almancil, it's a quick 14 km (8 miles) back to your start-point at Faro.
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Getting out and about to explore the Algarve is a "must", as I only belatedly discovered. The region is so steeped in history and culture and has
such beautiful landscapes that not venturing further than just the sand-fringed coastline amounts to vacation vandalism!
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