Paderne - an area with history

We made a detour to visit Paderne when we were en route to Alte in September 2004. We'd previously passed signposts pointing to the village, but had never bothered to follow them, so this time we were out to put that to rights.

Only a short drive (7.5 miles or 12 kilometres) from our Albufeira apartment, Paderne is quite a charming village. It is reputed to have been named after the hill (Paderna) on which it is situated. According to the archaeological experts, it was built well after the castle.

Like many areas of Algarve (and Portugal) the 'ownership' of the Paderne locale changed according to feats of arms. It was retaken from the Moors in 1189, only to be ceded again 2 years later to the mighty Caliph Al-Mansur.

The castle was only finally re-conquered in 1248 (allegedly with the help of English mercenaries, so our enthusiasm for Algarve tourism started long ago), after which the village establishment began in earnest. Paderne is the head village in its parish although, since the area is mainly agricultural, its surrounding settlements are mostly tiny.

Water power must have been important to the area in the past, as the water mill suggests. There seems to have been provision for milling in the locality since the early 16th Century. Nearby the village, two waterways (Algibre and d'Alte ) merge and then head for the sea at Quarteira. The riverbanks are a great spot for a rest or picnic during a journey on a boiling day.
 

Parish Church

Construction began in the early 1500s on an Igreja that boasted 3 naves. Like many Algarve churches, it is quite strikingly beautiful and has been added to over the centuries, having some of those interesting Manueline touches that I love to encounter. Inside, the features that I found most interesting were the wooden sculptures from the 17th and 18th Centuries.
 

Paderne Spring

At the fonte, some development has taken place, although it's fair to say that it is still refreshingly rustic. You'll find it some way outside the village, heading toward the castle. Now a protected area, it is due to undergo some more landscaping, but there is already parking (some of it nicely shaded).

The water feature arrangement (if that's what it is) struck me as a little strange, with its open troughs or sluices, but the fonte is still used by passing locals, as we found when we stopped there to investigate. There is also a wooden observation tower which I could not resist climbing. It was worth the effort for the cooling breeze I enjoyed at the top.

There are plans to provide space for stalls so that locals can display goods for sale, so we will no doubt revisit to see what's on offer.
 

Paderne Old Bridge

Heading toward the castle, the ancient bridge dates from Roman times, but was rebuilt in 1771 and looks quite impressive if you can view it without looking at the major elevated motorway that also spans the valley.
 

Paderne Castle

This edifice was built by the Moors and was allowed to fall into serious disrepair in the mid 19th Century.

It's now a national monument and has been part of a study by the Portuguese Archaeological Institute that led to the classification of the Quarteira River's surrounding areas as officially protected.

The castle is pretty much a ruin, although restoration work is underway.

We couldn't make out what the workmen were doing while we were there, but there was much to-ing and fro-ing in the fenced-off area at the west side; and they were extremely friendly (especially considering the rusty Portuguese that was on offer from our side!).

What's left of the original structure is some of the outer walls, the entrance way and the outline of the chapel. Everything there suffered damage during the 1755 earthquake, and it will probably be some time before it's safe for public opening.

We elected to drive up to see it, although the dusty track is shaded in parts by olive trees. (Don't believe the sign that says it is a 1.4 km walk - it must be more than that as the crow flies, and we'd have melted if we'd tried it on the day that we visited).

Ruins at Paderne castle: the one in       
the foreground, I took away with me...   

It's a lovely rustic area, with a good choice of spots for a breather and something to eat, and next time I visit, I'll allow a bit longer to spend exploring the churches.

So, there you have it: if you're out and about exploring in the vicinity of Albufeira, I would recommend a detour to enjoy some rural 'peace and solitude' at Paderne and its castle ruins.

I'll be adding more pages about interesting places to visit and enjoy throughout the Algarve, so watch out for what's new.

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