Spanish Algarve - A Day of Discovery
Ever since I'd heard about the Spanish Algarve, I'd wanted to visit, just to see how it compared with the 'real thing'. I can't begin to remember how many times we'd planned to fit in a trip across the Guadiana, but for a variety of reasons it never happened. But, in April 2005, we not only planned the campaign but carried it out. And I'm glad we did, if only because it lent a little contrast to how I think about the lovely 'real' Algarve in Portugal, now I have something for comparison...       The BridgeYou may have read elsewhere on this site about my vertigo and my avoidance of precipitous views. If so, you'll understand what a trial it is for me to cross a high, narrow bridge in a tiny hire car... But, as husband Nev often remarks, just because I'm an awful traveller doesn't mean that I'm not a keen one! So, we used the simple expedient of having him do the driving, while I sat with my eyes tight shut as we negotiated the elegant, white bridge over the Guadiana river that separates Portugal and the Spanish Algarve.
Once that was over, I was able to look out again, and see how I felt about being in Spain. First impressions were that there was little difference. Then, I don't know why I should have expected anything else, since Ayamonte on the Spanish side and Algarve's Vila Real do S. António are within waving distance of each other. There must surely be more contrast between the 'real' Algarve's (say) Portimão and Sagres, which are much further apart... Twisted logic aside, we continued for some miles on the IP1, feeling very much the intrepid explorers! It wasn't long before I felt peckish, so we looked around for somewhere that would double as a picnic-spot and as a nice example of Spanish Algarve to explore. After a hurried map consultation, this turned out to be Isla Cristina (lovely name), which offered beaches and some welcoming tree-shaded areas in which to top up my food intake. There was a clearly signed pull-off from the road showing a rest area. Careful selection of car parking spot meant that we got shade behind some trees (it was a blisteringly hot day - just what the médico ordered!) We found somewhere equally shady and set about scoffing down some provisions. Then we headed for the for our first Spanish Algarve beach - after all, beaches are the whole reason I started this website! Isla Cristina - Playa AzulThis proved to be an extremely long strip of beach. I'm not actually sure how long, but it extended to the east as far as I could see.
April is a funny month for Algarve tourism, and the same seems to apply in the Spanish Algarve. There you had a gorgeous beach, a beautiful sunny day - and we had it virtually all to ourselves! Nev quipped: "Quick, let's put the towels down, or we'll lose our place!" 
We strolled for a couple of miles without encountering any crowds, then doubled back and walked through the shady pine-studded picnic areas back to the car. Nev was threatening to melt by this time, so he sat down and adopted a suitably morose expression while I photographed him. Title of picture: "Scowling in the Spanish Algarve" Once he'd recovered what passes for his composure, we headed off to see more Spanish Algarve. I was particularly keen to compare property prices, as I'd heard that there were bargains to be had. But first, we stopped off at... Playa de CanelaThis town is situated a few kilometres back in the direction of Portugal (that's 'west' to you). Parking was no problem, and we made our way toward a rather welcoming nearby park, where the greenery gave some relief from all that heat haze shimmering off the pavements, which were already at egg-frying temperature! As in Portugal, the Spanish Algarve has more than its share of stray (or at any rate, unattached) dogs. We spotted a pair of rather endearing, if poorly-matched, would-be canine lovers who had a tryst in the park. The male was a tiny, 57 varieties dog, and his paramour was a pretty German Shepherd lady. Unfortunately, the difference in stature meant that their troth was never to be plighted, but the little guy was a game one and never stopped trying. Must be that Latin temperament, I suppose...
Nev rather likes to hear In the Gardens of Spain by Falla, so I managed a shot of him (above) posing against a Spanish Algarve garden background. Whether it will ever feature on the cover of a Deutsche Grammophon CD is a matter for conjecture. There'd probably have been a better chance if he'd smiled, but he insists it's the overhead sun that makes him squint so much. Out of the park, we walked the baking streets to seek cooling breezes and (hopefully) thrilling sights at the Playa proper. My impressions were: nice boardwalk, strangely deserted (a Spanish Algarve visit can be eerie on a Monday in April!) We did catch sight of our courting canine couple disporting themselves in the shallows. The female was much more playful once in the water, but sadly, her swain's short legs were even more of a liability than they had been on dry land. The course of true love just never runs smooth, as the Bard almost put it. Otherwise, the combination of off-season mood and what seemed to be a holiday Monday put paid to any chance of the Spanish Algarve exuding any sort of atmosphere during our visit. Rather than be judgemental (if such a word really exists) I'll only decide when I've been back for another visit.
Property PricesSince all estate agency premises that we visited were closed, we could only gauge from the window displays as to the good value (or otherwise) of Spanish Algarve property. It's difficult to say, not having actually viewed any properties in the flesh, but prices did seem cheaper than Portuguese Algarve equivalents. There might not be much of a saving to be made, though (plus that would mean yet another language to learn)! I'll check things more thoroughly when we visit next time. We finished off our time with a good walkabout through the pretty harbour and I stopped for a photograph (that's it at the top of this page) near the fountain roundabout before we left Playa da Canela, and made our way to the final visit of our Spanish Algarve day... AyamonteOften viewed from one of the many vantage points on Vila Real do S. António's riverfront, Ayamonte was a lure for me. How would this bit of the Spanish Algarve that's closest to the real thing actually compare? Visiting on a lovely hot day always helps a place's appeal, of course. Unfortunately, we arrived there about 4 in the afternoon, which seemed to be the local rush hour! We drove around the one-way system twice before finding a parking space, and then walked back to the centre from what seemed to be the furthest outskirts of what might still be Ayamonte... Impressions? A crowded, noisy, busy Iberian town. Seemingly based on fishing industry money, to judge from the weather-worn 'concrete-bunker' buildings alongside the river.
As usual, there were tree-populated 'park' areas and squares in which to stroll or watch the world go by. Equally the norm, there seemed to be much digging up of roads and pavements, which meant that walking around was a bit of a lottery. I'm afraid that I'm not as confident or devil-may-care as your average Portuguese or Spanish citizen when it comes to negotiating through traffic when drivers' attention always seems to be elsewhere. Not that anything unfortunate seems to happen (that I've witnessed)... ...Perhaps it's that old Anglo-Saxon caution that just won't be subdued by regular vacations in sunnier and more relaxed climes? The bit that disappointed us most was the centrally-located park area which offered (basic) public toilet facilities and a truly depressing 'zoo'. Here the animals, some of them large beasts, were caged in cramped conditions on concrete flooring, without much shade. The gawking visitors were able to approach right up to the bars, to the annoyance of some poor animals that never seemed to get any peace or rest. Certainly, animal welfare and any concern for their conditions of captivity didn't seem to be high on the agenda... (Bear with me: politically-correct rant nearly over). As an 'educational' tool, it probably serves more to teach the animals about homo sapiens than the other way round. We didn't stay long after that, as we were tiring in the heat and wanted to find somewhere to eat. Nev made a request to revisit Vila Real do S. António, so that he could have another of those fine veggie pizzas we'd enjoyed there previously. Since he'd been on his best behaviour for most of the day, how could I refuse (even though I didn't fancy a pizza myself)? So we walked back to find the car, and struggled through the streaming traffic of Ayamonte to head for the Guadiana bridge and back into the 'real' Algarve. Post ScriptAnd yes, Nev did enjoy his artichoke-topped pizza in Vila Real's O Corocão de Cidade (see my Best Algarve Restaurants page)- while I plumped for a nice cheese-and-mushroom omelette (with fries and salad included in the price - yum)! After a slow stroll through our favourite geometrically-tiled square, while watching the swifts diving around to catch their suppers, we set off once again for Boliqueime and our lovely Abelheira villa... Tired, but triumphant after another day's exploring! So, what about the Spanish Algarve? I think "the jury's out" and I'd need to revisit on a busier day to make up my mind about the beaches and the property market. I would certainly need to look around a few properties to see what value-for-money is like (it's impossible to tell from a description in an estate agent's window... But another visit will be no hardship, since I like to 'do stuff' while I'm vacationing. Just so long as Nev's on hand to do the driving while we cross that Guadiana bridge! If you'd like to contribute an opinion or share any personal knowledge about the Spanish Algarve, please use the handy form on the Your Algarve Best page, and... Keep up to date with what's happening in Algarve by subscribing to my regular 'ezine' (newsletter). Just use the form below.
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